In all honesty, trout is not my favorite fish… but, where I live in the Appalachian Mountains, it is the one I get to fish for and eat the most. To many avid fly fishermen, this statement borders on heresy for two reasons: 1) Some are catch and release absolutists who would never even consider eating this magically immortal creature. 2) Many gourmets consider freshly caught trout to be absolute perfection in piscatorial dining. Well, I answer the first question with the facts that trout are stocked in our mountain streams, there are an abundance, and trout do not live forever - many times I have seen “trophy” sized fish that were carefully released by an Orivs devotee washed up on the shore to be eaten by birds and raccoons. (BTW, the Orvis cookbook absolutely admonishes its readers to follow catch an release practices and cook hamburgers instead!). But, as for flavor, trout from clean, fresh, mountain waters is extremely mild. This makes it an excellent starter fish for people who have not developed a taste for richer fish flavors, and makes it perfect for rich sauces which delight the chef.
That said, I do enjoy fishing for trout. Fly fishing, and especially the ultra-light Japanese style known as Tenkara, is among the most enjoyable of all outdoor activities. To be waist deep in cold mountain waters on a hot summer day, seeing a trout rise to take a dry fly, a swift battle to the creel… it is paradise! Still though, I have to admit that I usually prefer the flavor of saltwater fish. Saltwater fish have more rich and assertive flavors. But, I have found several ways to bring out the natural flavor from trout. This is best done with very simple ingredients that do not overwhelm the tender, mild, white flesh of this very delicate fish.
Campfire Trout
This is my usual spring recipe when the ramps (wild leeks) and wood sorrel are in season. Trout benefits greatly from citrus (all fish does, in my rarely humble opinion). Sorrel is a wild green that has a lemony flavor. Most often, I simply salt and pepper the inside after gutting (trout have no scales by the way, which also makes them a favorite), stuff with a handful of wood sorrel and a few ramp leaves, wrap in bacon and fry in a pan over the fire. If I don’t bring a pan or bacon, I just wrap the stuffed fish in a burdock leaf and cook it directly on the coals. This method steams the trout inside the leaf, You peel the charred leaf off and enjoy the most mild, tender fish you can imagine.
But, of course, you do not have to catch your own trout to enjoy it. Store bought fillets or butterflied whole fish are available at most markets. I prefer to buy whole fish unfrozen, so I can judge the freshness by the clearness of the eyes and the scent. Trout should always smell clean, not fishy. But, sometimes frozen fillets are all you can get…. and they are still pretty dang good! I will write an entire series on breading and frying fish, because there are many techniques. With trout though, a simple pan sear is fast, easy and very good if you use the right seasonings.
Lemon Pepper Trout
You can make your own lemon pepper seasoning by combining lemon zest and ground black pepper, or buy some pre-made. You will also want some parsley and either butter or olive oil. Dry the fish well so it sears and doesn’t cause the oil to spatter. Season with salt, lemon pepper and parsley. Bring the fat of your choice up to a medium-high, not hot enough to smoke. Make sure not to crowd the pan - only cook one butterflied fish or two fillets at a time unless you have a big pan. If you cook too much, so that the fillets touch, the fish will steam instead of sear. Brown it lightly on each side. It is perfect just as is, but a simple pan sauce is elevates the dish. After removing the fish from the pan, add some more butter and cook a shallot, chives or a small amount of onion, finely chopped, and cook it until soft, add some parsley, a half glass of white wine, and either a little lemon juice or capers with a bit of brine. Turn the pan off and melt in a little more butter to thicken. The sauce should take less than 5 minutes to make, so serve it immediately, over the fish while everything is still hot. I usually cook some fresh asparagus in the same pan, because it pairs perfectly with the same flavors.
ENJOY and thank God for His abundant bounty!
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